How Do I Choose The Right Climbing Shoes?

As I tightened my harness and laced up my climbing shoes, I pondered an essential question for any climber: “How do I choose the right climbing shoes?” The right pair of shoes can make a significant difference in your climbing performance and comfort. Here’s a comprehensive guide based on personal experience and expert advice on selecting the perfect climbing shoes.

Choosing the right climbing shoes is crucial for ensuring both safety and performance. With various styles, fits, and materials available, it can be daunting to determine which pair is best for you. The goal is to find shoes that offer the perfect balance of comfort, support, and technical performance.

1. Types of Climbing Shoes:

Neutral Shoes: These shoes have a relaxed fit and are ideal for beginners or those planning to climb long routes. They provide comfort and can be worn all day.
Moderate Shoes: Slightly downturned, these shoes offer a balance between comfort and performance, making them suitable for intermediate climbers tackling a variety of routes.
Aggressive Shoes: Highly downturned and designed for advanced climbers, these shoes offer maximum precision and power for challenging climbs like overhangs and technical bouldering.

2. Closure Systems:

Laces: Allow for a customized fit and can be adjusted for varying foot swelling during long climbs.
Velcro Straps: Provide convenience and quick adjustments, popular among gym climbers.
Slip-Ons: Known for their simplicity and snug fit, these are great for training and certain types of climbing like crack climbing due to their low profile.

3. Materials and Construction:

Leather Shoes: Tend to stretch over time, molding to the foot for a custom fit. They are breathable and comfortable once broken in but can initially be tight.
Synthetic Shoes: Offer less stretch and maintain their shape longer. They are ideal for those who prefer consistent fit and performance over the shoe’s lifespan.

4. Shoe Last:

Straight Last: Provides a more relaxed fit, suitable for long climbs and beginner shoes.
Asymmetric Last: Concentrates power over the big toe for precise foot placements, common in moderate and aggressive shoes.
Downturned Last: Enhances power and performance on steep, overhanging routes by directing energy towards the toes.

The Best Solution

To find the perfect climbing shoes, follow these steps:

1. Identify Your Climbing Style:

Determine the type of climbing you do most frequently (bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, etc.) and choose shoes that are designed for that style. Beginners might start with neutral shoes, while more advanced climbers might opt for aggressive shoes for technical routes.

2. Consider Fit and Comfort:

Your climbing shoes should fit snugly without causing pain. Try shoes on later in the day when your feet are more likely to be swollen, and remember that leather shoes will stretch over time.

3. Try Multiple Pairs:

Visit a store where you can try on different brands and styles. Walk around in the shoes and try basic climbing movements to ensure they feel right. Each brand and model fits differently, so take your time to find the best fit.

4. Pay Attention to Closure Systems:

Choose a closure system that matches your needs for adjustability and convenience. Laces offer the most precise fit, Velcro straps are quick to adjust, and slip-ons provide simplicity and comfort.

5. Evaluate Materials:

Decide between leather and synthetic materials based on your preference for stretch and breathability. Leather shoes offer a custom fit over time, while synthetic shoes provide consistent performance.

Resources and Tools

Climbing Stores: REI, Outdoor Life, and other outdoor retailers offer a wide range of climbing shoes and knowledgeable staff to assist you.
Online Reviews: Websites like ClimbingJunkie, The Climbing Guy, and Climb Explorers provide detailed reviews and comparisons of different climbing shoes.
Climbing Gyms: Many gyms have rental shoes that allow you to try different styles before purchasing your own pair.

Conclusion

As the sun climbed higher, casting a golden glow on the rock face, I felt confident and prepared. Choosing the right climbing shoes is a journey of understanding your climbing style, prioritizing comfort and performance, and taking the time to find the perfect fit. By following these guidelines and leveraging available resources, you can find the ideal pair of climbing shoes to elevate your climbing experience. Happy climbing!